Yes, we made it, just.. Left Saint-Palais after a night in a converted Franciscan monestary with some other ´pelerins´. Plans of breakfast in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port went fine, ate in a resto that Alex and I hade been to last year. Then the problems started.. we got our passports stamped at the ´Port de Saint-Jacques´and our path was crossed by many evil looking cats, headed out of town on the right road, we thought, and proceeded directly up hill, pushing the bikes up the equivalent of a Munroe, greeted by sneers from pannier-free Swiss bikers coming down.
After a beer and a several warnings near the top (as we thought) we headed on up into the mist. Finally, with wild horses, black-headed sheep, vultures & eagles laughing at us, we decided to cut off the hill when we could no longer see and it was after 5pm. Hurtling down, breaks on fire, we came across a Spanish cyclist HEADING UP, thinking he too was heading to Rocesvalles. After some debate and local consultation we all headed down to the nearest village where we met the main road about half way to Roncesvalles. We´d already crossed into Spain but no border sign so no celebration, and turned over the thousandth km of the trip (a small handshake) and we still had about 15km to pretty much push the bikes uphill (if you know the road between St-J-P-de-P & Ron you will be crying by now, we were) at 4kmph into town. You do the math (as they say) and yes, we got here after 9pm in the pitch black. Just in time to grab a bite and get lodgings in a portacabin, as the main auberge is being rennovated.
Much better this morning with a reasonable kip, a wash, a coffee, croissante & a fag (me) we´re ready once more, really bursting to go, let them try and hold us back..etc..into the low, wet cloud which has descended and make our way to Pamplona, a mere 45km away, but on the Camino it will be muddy, hilly and hard work. May take a day off there.
Love Dave & Simon xx
